I bought a new harness from Speedway for 12 circuits Here. It was pretty easy to follow, and nearly plugged direct to my steering column. I did have to move a few pins, but the instructions were great. You will want wiring color instructions for the harness and the column you are using. I bought a bunch of waterproof butt connectors and about twice as much ½ split loom as I thought I’d need. I took my time and ran the wires cleanly and used clips and self-tapping screws to attach the loom where I wanted, this gave me a nice clean look.
The wires hooking to my gauges were simple enough. I did have to add an oil temp sender and coolant temp sensor to my gauges though. I was given both senders with my gauges. I installed a new Headlight switch. The headlight switch instructions are worthless, the only correct item was the power wire location, I wired it several times and eventually decided to add my parking and dash lights on the same terminal and the headlights on the dash terminal, no other option gave me headlights, taillights and dash lights on full pull. I did have to call Speedway when my blinkers were on solid rather than blinking. They informed me that since I was using LED lights, I needed Dummy Load Resistors to make them work. The resistors installed easily, instructions were simple.
Powering the Wiring Harness
The harness draws power from the starter positive side. There is a large red wire in the engine side of the harness, it attaches to the same stud as the battery+ and engine harness. You will need to install a fusible link here; the instructions say this is very important. The purple wire in this harness then attaches to the other smaller post on the starter. All of the items run by it have their own grounds, so there is no main ground wire.
Engine Wiring Harness
I bought a New Engine Harness, I also grabbed a PCM Mount Bracket and a TCC Sensor from them. The new harness looks great and the instructions were decent. They did not include a wire for the fuel pump for “Clean Install” as the instructions said. I feel like most people will be running a, electric fuel pump that are doing an LS swap, I’m sure they had their reasons, but I think it should have been included. Since it wasn’t, I had to run a wire from the relay to the pump, no biggie really. Most of the rest of the Dash section wires are simple enough and the instructions are simple. I did need to go buy an idiot light, it was only a couple bucks, but should have been included in my opinion.
The TCC switch was the worst part, I followed the instructions to a T, but it would not give power to the taillights when the brake pedal was pressed. I walked away from it several times and finally took it apart. I found that the 2 sides are not connected by a power bar, I simply put a jumper wire in my power side of the switch and added it to the other side and Voila, I had brake lights and TCC signal. Mounting the switch was another story, there was nothing to mount it to? I looked all over my brake pedal and determined the best location was right against the back of the brake arm when not pressed. I used some scrap tube steel and built a mount. The switch is threaded and provides some adjustment, but didn’t come with a set of nuts to lock it down. It should have included that, but I simply wrapped both sides with electrical tape and then threw a hose clamp on, it works great and functions well. I had my gripes, but I will certainly buy from them again, their harness is nice quality.
Electric Wiper Install
Believe it or not, my original vacuum wiper motor still worked, but I decided to upgrade it anyhow. I bought a replacement 12v motor HERE. I also decided to replace the wiper arms and blades because mine were missing part of the wiper blade mount. I got them HERE. When replacing the arms, there is a tiny clip that holds them on, just look at the replacement and you will see what needs to be depressed to remove the old ones. The new wiper motor went in fairly easy, its just 2 bolts and the arm connections. Wiring is easy too, as my wiring harness has a 12v wiper positive and you then just need a ground.
I thought about putting it in the bed, under the bed and inside the cab. I went to the local Antique mall and bought an old metal cooler. I screwed it to the bed and installed my battery inside. I decided to put it in the bed off kilter a bit, I wanted it to look like it was just sitting in the bed and had slid a bit from the front corner. I’m really happy with it. I bought 1/0-gauge primary wire and lugs from Lowes. Ground goes right to the frame and positive to the large lug on the starter. I then ran a 4-gauge wire from the alternator to the large stud on the starter. I used Heat Sleeve on all wires within 1’ of the engine or headers. I installed a Main Power Shutoff on the negative cable inside the cooler.
Originally this truck had tiny tail lights. I wanted something bigger for safety, if I have my kids in here, I want to make sure someone can clearly see my brake lights, I bought Trailer LED Lights. I simply added a piece of angle iron to the back of the bed uprights and painted them with bed liner spray. It’s simple and I won’t have to worry about someone not seeing my brake lights. These are DOT compliant and do everything needed except have reverse lights.
For the front lights I decided to go with an all in one style LED light. I got some 7” lights. They were too deep to fit the original headlight bracket, but they are self-contained and able to mount on a light bar, so I just cut out the inside of the original truck headlight bracket inside the fender with a plasma cutter and used the retaining plate to fasten it to the truck. These have Hi/Lo, daytime running lights and blinkers in one light!
Tips: Wiring was more difficult than I’d imagined, but I just needed to be patient. I would certainly advise buying a nice test light and crimpers. Crappy crimpers make the job a lot worse. Get THESE